(See the first half of this visit here)
After lunch we leave to walk the beach, and Kamil sighs. “In 3 years here, already 15 feet of beach disappear. The water keep rising. Ice caps keep melting. Your generation, you need to learn be independent. How to find wood to burn. How to cook your food right. Not all this package stuff. And to grow food! Grow carrots for the winter, potatoes. And learn nature’s garden – the plants, and where pick them. Dry them, make your tea all year.”
We get a few steps away when he calls “Haawa! Haawa, come walking”. She bleats from far away bushes, and he calls gently again. She climbs the rocks and fallen logs, bleating happily, until she is at his side.
“Use your intuition to listen to the animals. They will all be with you if you work with them.” Like a dog who has learned to heel, Haawa hugs his side as we cross the stone covered beach.
He bends to show me local sage, deer antlers, the spine of a crab. He picks spicy mustard greens that look like seaweed crossed with arugula, and another that is exactly like wasabi.
We eat lemony greens (my favourite of the day) and honey sweet flowers. Every plant we pass seems to contain hidden magic.
As we eat the plants, Haawa explores the treeline, munching on bushes. If we step too far away, she bleats anxiously. “Ok darling, we will wait. Enjoy your lunch.” Kamil sits down on a log and watches the sea, ever patient. He shares stories too incredible to summarize: his weaving of detail and imagery, pacing and symmetry, all braiding unbelievable yet clearly true content…it’s absolutely masterful. He is one of the greatest storytellers I have ever met. And he gifts me with the stories unprovoked, as long as I sit and listen.
“You need to meet friends your own age.” He tells me.
I laugh. “I haven’t seen anyone yet!!”
“Mmmm. Yes. And many of them, all they do is drink and party. I prefer the people who don’t, like you. You can feel the person is different, yeah? They look at you, talk to you different.”
He is so happy to hear I’m going to a yoga class tonight. “Yes! Good! You will meet young people there. Nice people. Me, I chop my wood, dance at night with the spirits on the beach, walk with my goat. Don’t need more exercise. But you, you can go there.”
I ask about dancing on the beach. “Like walking through milk! So many spirits at night.”
“You dance with the spirits? Kamil, aren’t you afraid?”
“No girl. I am not afraid of anything.”